Brad Farmerie’s Boudin Noir
Yields 18 bangers, approximately 5-6 inches in size
Boudin Noir is a delicacy that reaches back more than 2000 years to a time tested technique of transforming blood into food. Blood is a viable and renewable animal resource, and despite being a historical dish, Boudin Noir has become a modern symbol of today’s “waste not, want not” mantra of cooking. You may be tempted to substitute cow’s blood as it is more readily available than that of pig, but resist this enticement as it leads to a more neutral, insipid flavor that doesn’t justify the time, love and tenderness that go into this project. Quatre Épices is a classic spice blend that finds its way into many recipes for terrines, sausages, and stews, so take the time to make a batch to have on the shelf. You’ll notice that my recipe for quatre épices, or “four spices,” appears to have a few too many ingredients but it will taste that much better (I’ll just blame the misnomer on my lack of skill with foreign languages).
100g panko bread crumbs
200g double (heavy) cream
700g finely chopped onion
12g minced garlic
120g duck fat
280g green apple, peeled and fine diced 1⁄2 cup dark rum
300g lean pork scraps, ground
500g pork fatback, skin removed and fine diced
2 1⁄2 Tbs salt
2 tsp ground black pepper
1⁄2 tsp ground nutmeg
“PUBLIC Blend Quatre Épices” (recipe below)
21⁄4 tsp dry porcini powder
1 1⁄4 tsp mild curry spice
920g pigs blood
Salted hog casing, soaked overnight in cold water
Hot brown chicken stock
“PUBLIC Blend Quatre Épices”
4g black pepper
2g ground cinnamon
5g ground ginger
4 blades star anise
2 green cardamom pods (just the seeds inside)
Combine all of the ingredients in a spice grinder and process to a fine powder
Disposable pastry piping bags
Drop top that fits into the pot
Combine the panko and double cream in a mixing bowl and set aside.
Place the onion and garlic in a sauté pan with half (60g) of the duck fat. Slowly, over low heat, cook them until very soft and trans- lucent. Set aside to cool in refrigerator.
Separately, add the other half of the duck fat (60g) to a sauté pan and place on high heat. Add the diced green apple and cook over high heat until golden and soft (about 3 minutes). Deglaze the pan with the dark rum, cook out until dry, and set aside until cool in refrigerator.
In a mixing bowl combine all the ingredients except the blood.
Add the cooked apple, the cooked onion/garlic, the ground meat, the fatback, the panko/cream mix, and all the spices. Add the blood and stir to combine, mixing thoroughly. Refrigerate for 10 minutes to thicken slightly.
Stretch the hog casing over the sausage funnel and tie a knot in the end. Pour the sausage mix into a disposable piping bag. Place the piping bag into the sausage funnel and cut the tip off, squeezing the mix into the casing, making sure there are no air bubbles in the sausage or twists in the casing. Empty the contents of the piping bag into the hog casing. Do not tie the other end of the casing until you have twisted the sausage into links; this will allow air to escape and allow you to better regulate the compression of the final sausages. Twist into sausages, alternating direction of twists to make 18 firm sausages. You must work quickly as the casing is porous and blood can slowly leak from within.
Pick up the circle of sausages and place them in a pot lined with a towel, cover with a drop top, and pour the hot brown chicken stock over top. Poach with a drop cover over low heat (liquid temperature around 200F) for about 25 minutes, or until the color has changed to a dull brownish black and the sausages are firm (looking for an internal temperature of 165F). Do not allow the liquid to boil. Remove the pot from the heat and allow the boudin to cool in the cooking liquid. When the sausages are sufficiently cool re- move from the liquid and refrigerate until ready to serve.
To serve-cook slowly (lightly pricked and 10 minutes in the oven) in duck fat until skin is crispy. Cool for 2 minutes before serving.
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